Shirakawa-go, home to cute little farmhouses which roofs are built without nails, was charming. We took the first bus from Takayama (7.20am) and reached the town in about an hour with the place almost entirely to ourselves. Taking advantage of the clear grounds before other tourists started pouring in, WJ and I went straight to the Outdoor Museum Gassho Folk Museum as soon as it opened at 8.40am.